Layering
In one type of layering, two or more fabrics with different characteristics or
qualities are placed over each other, then stitched and cut back to reveal parts
of the contrasting fabrics underneath. Opaque and sheer fabrics are combined.
Some layers may be partial. Some may be made up of thread ends or fabric
shapes - or both. All can be stitched together before cutting away areas to reveal
the layers beneath. You may also cut right through all layers and reverse-
appliqué further layers behind the opening thus created.
It can also mean layering stitches. The same stitch may be put - in different
colours and/or threads - one over the other for richness of effect. It can also
mean layering the same type of stitch two or more times and then, for the last
layer, choosing a thread, colour and type of stitch which will contrast clearly with
what is underneath.
This page features some pieces which began life as demonstrations in a
workshop of mine entitled Layering, Optical Colour-mixing and Texture. © I have
taught this across Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA, always with very
pleasing - and often exciting - student results.
Really a course on controlled improvisation in design, it focuses on the three
aspects in the title. I eventually finish the pieces, always naming them after the
city or place in which they began life.
1. Canberra (1999) (Private collection, Winnipeg) - lamé, hand-painted silks, including
georgette; tulle; hand-painted silk yarn
2. Phillip Island (1999) (Private collection, Toronto) - lamé, hand-painted silks, including
georgette
3. Winnipeg (2000/2001) -(Private collection, Winnipeg) - lamé, hand-painted silks, silver
and gold nylon crystal organza; hand-painted silk yarn
4. Toronto (2000/2001) (Private collection, Seattle, WA - lamé, hand-painted silks, black and
gold synthetic organza
5. Hobart (2000) (Private collection, Hobart) - lamé, gold, black and hologram synthetic organza;
thread ends and snippets; hand-painted silk yarn
6. Wellington (2001) (Private collection, Boulder, CO) - lamé, hand-painted silks, black and gold
synthetic organza; thread ends and snippets; hand-painted silk yarn
The exercise begins with layered opaque and sheer fabrics to establish a basis
for developing the design, perhaps a rhythm or a sense of movement or flow.
There can be up to half a dozen layers. Some are whole, some may be "cut and
spread" to form the channels which create the flow and reveal layer/s beneath.
The top layer is always whole, as this keeps the cut edges beneath it from fraying.
It can also give a unifying colour cast to the whole - rather like unifying a selection
of patchwork fabrics by over-dyeing them all with one tint or colour.
The next stage is to stitch all layers together on the established design lines and
to develop the effect of Stage 1 by further stitching and cutting back to reinforce
the rhythm. My advice is always to apply the KISS principle at this stage
(Keep It Simple, Sweetheart). If the design becomes too complex too early, then
design options for further development have been closed off, rather than being left
open.
The next stage is to bond on the focal motifs. All further developments are
intended to draw the eye to them. The main motifs - the primary motifs - may
require the support of secondary ones, as in Canberra, where there is only one
primary motif - the Matisse-type shape. It therefore requires the support of the
three secondary ones. In Toronto, there are three primary motifs, again Matisse-
type shapes. In Phillip Island, the whole flowers are the primary motifs, the half-
flowers the secondary ones.
Hobart and Wellington both use spirals, which are supported by triangles
beneath and around them, on the line of the horizontal counter-flow established
in the first stage. However, they have been arranged differently. If you click to
enlarge these images, you will see that the treatment of the motifs differs in each.
Only some of the triangles in both have been given identical treatment, by stitching
close straight lines to bring them to the top of the work.
The approach to Winnipeg is altogether different and more organic. The original
rectangle has been broken down at the edges. These are all finished with off-the-
edge stitching, usually in the colour/colours of the embroidery. The emphasis is
on the more "organic" look. This is sympathetic to the organic character of the
shapes. Areas are progressively embroidered and padded, and the extra piece
with the vertical shapes is placed behind for contrast.
The last stage in all pieces is to enrich the embroidery over the whole, the aim being to direct the viewer's eye to
the focal area or to follow the flow. If desired, the piece can then be mounted. My preference is for an embroidered
fabric mount which in part extends the design on to it.
While Canberra and Wellington do not have mounts, I have extended Toronto
and Hobart with one, taking a similar approach, extending design lines and motifs
outside the original boundaries. These have been finished off so as to lift them
forward visually from the mount.
Toronto features a few design lines or channels extended onto the mount, but
with a change of colour and treatment. The same kind of Matisse-type motifs
appear in the mount, but only parts are visible, as if they are emerging from under
the inner, bound, border.
In Hobart, the horizontal counter-rhythm (established in the first stage) has
been extended onto the mount with the same thread ends and triangles of silk
laid under the top sheer layer. They are then brought visually to the top with
stitching. With Winnipeg, for a further contrast, the whole piece is mounted on a
formal black rectangle on which the main (roughly horizontal) lines in the piece
have been extended in black onto the mount. The heavy-thread border in
space-dyed silk yarn links the mount to the piece - but the organic shapes at the
bottom refuse to be confined and extend beyond the rectangle.
In all of these pieces, the lowest layer of fabric (over the Pellon and the
stabiliser) is lamé. Though I have exposed narrow channels of it in Toronto and
Hobart, I usually prefer to leave it covered by at least one layer of sheer in order
to tame it both visually and technically. Naked lamé can be too dominant. Though
I have exposed larger areas in Canberra, I have tried to subdue the sheen with
FME.
Return to Machine Embroidery
or go to Faces
or go to Fabric Collage
or go to Bark, Lichen and Fungi